This article appears in the Winter 2024 issue
Sautéed Salmon with Celeriac Puree and Red Wine Reduction
Salmon…a favorite among chefs and home cooks worldwide because it is delicious and versatile. Its ease of procurement, variety of choices, and endless possibilities for preparing are coveted.
Salmon also gets high praise for its nutritional content. Which is the best salmon to cook with? Well, that depends on how you’re cooking it and on your personal tastes. Sockeye salmon, for instance, has a rich flavor and bright red flesh after smoking. A favorite is the King Salmon (Chinook) because of its high fat content, silky texture, and cooking versatility. Both are wild-caught. Feeding naturally on krill and other crustaceans promotes a darker pink color than farm-raised. Atlantic Salmon is a reliable and consistent supply for consumption today because it is farm-raised in pens. Mild but rich flavor from high fat content (about 10 percent) and affordable pricing make it a popular choice. There is much controversy about which—farm-raised or wild-caught—is most healthful.
This preparation is a little unexpected because of the red wine reduction, but you will be licking your fork! Mashed potatoes could replace the celeriac if it is not available. Plate with a vegetable of your choice. Sautéed petite root vegetables or frenched green beans are two of my favorites. Serves 4.
Red Wine Reduction
2 cups full-bodied red wine
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons shallot, minced
1 sprig thyme
1/2 teaspoon cracked pepper
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
4 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons heavy cream at room temperature (optional)
Heat the oil in a large sauté pan on medium high. Add shallots, thyme, and pepper and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes until shallots are soft. Deglaze the pan with vinegar and red wine. Bring to a boil, cook, and reduce by two-thirds to a syrupy consistency. Whisk in 4 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon at a time. Note: 2 tablespoons heavy cream at room temperature may be added at this point for a creamier consistency. Strain out solids through a sieve and keep warm.
Puréed Celeriac
1 celeriac bulb, peeled and cut into chunks
2 cups milk
Salt and pepper
Cook celeriac by putting chunks into a pot, add milk to cover, and add water if needed. Boil until tender. Drain, saving all liquid. Purée with 1 cup of cooking liquid with a blender, food mill, or immersion blender until silky. Add more cooking liquid if too thick. Add salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm.
Sautéed Salmon
4 8-ounce center-cut salmon fillets, skin removed, similarly sized
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Salt and pepper
Check your salmon for tiny pin bones and remove with tweezer or needle-nose pliers. Add enough oil to a nonstick skillet to coat, and heat to medium high—hot but not smoking. Dry off salmon with paper towel, add salt and pepper on top. Place salmon salt and pepper-side down in pan and cook undisturbed for 3 to 4 minutes until crust forms. Flip over and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, depending on the thickness of the filet. Test for doneness: 120 degrees is medium rare. Your choice.
To plate, swirl the celeriac on individual plates and lay a piece of salmon on top. Spoon the wine sauce around perimeter and place veggies if using. Enjoy!
Melody Tierney is an avid foodie and enjoys sharing her passion with others. A former bed and breakfast owner in Southampton, New York, she and her husband Phil were featured as an Inn of the Month in Travel and Leisure magazine.